last minute things.

Well time is creeping up on us. Next week is the off for the TGOC thingy. So far it has proved a tad more expensive that I wanted. Having failed to track down my lost trekking poles a descision had to be met. My Black diamond pair are good poles, however, weighing them on the scales they average out at two pounds for the pair, ouch!. A deep breath and a hurried phone call to the ever patient Rose at Back Packing Light and I now have a new pair at over half the weight. This is after managing to blag a new tent tarp at a special price. Again, weight was the deciding factor. It means another pound in weight saved. The downside to that is that I am using a new shelter that I have not used before. Drastic action was needed after I did a trial pack and found my pack was creeping up over the twelve kilo mark. As it is, I am carrying maps, which will bump up the weight. Yes, I could post them on but prefer them with me. At least I can post them back to myself as they become of no further use. Talking of weight, something I have been taking more seriously of late is the matter of loos, or lack of. Over the last few years I have noticed the alarming increase of human excrement on open display in many areas of the hills. Apart from the fact that it looks disgusting, I cannot understand the mentality behind such behaviour. Respect for the hills and the wild places we roam ought to be the norm. A leave no litter policy surely includes, ' leave no unsightly mess like human waste' There is the added factor too of hygene, polute the land, polute the water and we reap the consequences in diseases like gardia and the such. Well, I invested in a just the jobby trowel from Back Packing Light, (yes Darren, feel free to borrow it). One downside, yet again the weight factor reared it's head. The trowel came in at around four ounces. A ponder over a long cup of tea and then a quick rummage in the 'every woman's tool box' Out with the hacksaw, a few nifty cuts, a bit of filing and some work with glasspaper and voila, a mini just the jobby. It now weighs in at two ounces. It still remains as functional and is ideal for digging a cat hole.

Backpackers AGM

Wanting to get a walk in I travelled up to Buxton on the Thursday. My intention was to head for a camp site nearby and walk over to Ashford in the Water on the Friday. The camp site, Thornheyes farm, was muddy. My heart sank, I am growing to loath campsites that offer pitches in mud. Sorry, I just do not do mud. The pole for the hex had to have a piece of wood placed under it after it sank a good three inches. Some rain during the night meant packing a wet tent but I was glad to be away. A gentle walk over to Peak Dale and then on to Small Dale and around to the Pennine bridleway. Down through Hay Dale and Monks Dale. from there picked up the old railway track that is now the Monsal trail and continued on to Monsal Head and then by bridleways to Ashford. A pleasant day's walking. The campsite was huge, covering several acres. It is marked as a holiday park and has both static and mobile caravans. The area marked out for the backpackers was small in comparison. By Saturday it was crowded. A pity really. There was a large space right next door used for car parking. Three quarters of it remained unused throughout the weekend. Possibly if we had been allowed to utilise the area things would have far less cramped. To be honest, after Bellingham last year, this year was something of a let down. Far less trade stands, pubs that had no time for people who wanted food. Darren and John have already written up about people's lack of consideration for others. it highlights the point of why so many of us prefer wild camping. I had just turned in when all the noise started. As someone who finds crowds extremely stressful, I found I was heading towards a migraine. Fortunately I have tablets that ward off a severe attack. However, all I wanted was some peace and quiet. Sheep are peaceful neighbours in comparison. To cap things off, on Sunday, not realizing my clock was slow, I just missed the nine o clock bus. Thankfully there was another just before ten. This allowed me to catch the 10 25 train from Buxton to Stockport. Things just continued on downhill from there. The fast train to London that I wanted was cancelled. Caught the next one. Shortly after it stopped and we where told it was due to a major power failure further down the track. We sat for some twenty minutes before resuming our journey. Another couple of stops with regular announcements by the train manager. " Sorry for the delays, there are four trains currently held in front of us. As yet there is uncertainty whether we actually proceed to London." Oh the joys of rail travel! We eventually almost made it to Birmingham International only to stop once more. this time due to a major security alert which had closed both the airport and station. Finally we where allowed to proceed but not to stop at the station. Passengers had to get off further down the line and travel back. Just outside Milton Keynes we stopped yet again. A total signal failure this time. Finally we headed back up the track and over to Northampton. It was total chaos. Other trains had also been diverted there. The station was wall to wall in people. The station staff where overwhelmed. Coaches had been arranged, sort of. They trickled in slowly, in dribs and drabs. There where three people trying to sort the mess out. The actual guy trying to find where coaches where supposed to be going was doing so via a mobile phone. It was one almighty scrum. Managed to get myself on a coach for Euston. When we got to London, it quickly obvious the driver had no idea where he was going. As we hit Oxford street for the second time there was mutiny. Passengers demanded he stop the coach immediately and a whole crowd of us abandoned ship. Not bad, arriving back in London some four hours plus late?

Hard miles

Monday 14th April. Camped OS Explorer map 214 Gr901730.
Well things did not get off to a good start for the week. Came up on the train to Aberystwyth this morning. having a two hour wait before catching a bus onward. Went in to a cafe for fish and chips. Somewhat bland and indifferent, not inspiring. Watched groups of youngsters wandering through town carrying broom handles, odd!. Caught the bus I wanted. Why can some bus drivers be so grumpy? Was heading up to Llangurig and asked the driver to let me know when we got there. he just pointed to an old lady, "She gets off there" Very abrupt. My very light trekking poles are too long to carry on the rucksack when travelling; thus it meant carrying them separately. The inevitable happened. they got left on the bus. It is rare for me to lose kit so I am vexed and am now minus my poles. The first point I had marked for a wild camp was only fifteen minutes down the road. It was a fine evening and so pushed on down the valley. Came around by Dernol, across to Pen-Yr-Ochr and then up the hill and over to where I am now camped. Am up higher than I intended and the temperature is dropping rapidly. it is late though. Some two and a half hours walking.
Tuesday 15th April. Camped OS Explorer map 200 GR 890620.
It was clear last night with a brilliant moon. by early morning the temperature had dropped rapidly. Getting up was a chilly affair. It was bitterly cold and the tent was frozen solid. Ditto the water bag, had to thump it to break up the ice. Was glad to get moving. headed down to the road by the Afon Elan. Large puddles with a covering of ice, tadpoles swimming around quite happily. Swung around to pick up the bridleway that come up by Carn Ricet. Followed around by Waun Bryn-Hir. Red kites putting on wonderful aerial ballet. Some nasty hail and sleet showers made things even more chilly. Dropped down by Esgair Gwar-y-ty. Joined the track that runs down the side of Claerwen Reservoir. A long plod. came down the valley to where I am now camped. A blustery wind had me seeking a camp spot a bit lower down. There is a foot bridge very close by and a road across the river. However, my body is saying 'enough' and this is a snug spot tucked in behind a large rocky outcrop.

Wednesday 16th April camped Gr OS explorer map 187 822498.
Today has been hard and at times difficult. A frost again last night. Woke though to a heavy mist blanketing the valley. Everything a tad grey and dank. Made my way around by Rhiwnant farm. Leg muscles protesting on the first uphill section as I made my way up towards Bwlch y Ddau Faen. got to where the path split, I wanted the left hand path. A good track ran off right. Checked map, looked about and found a path that had definitely been used frequently and headed off. Somehow though I had a niggling feeling all was not well. Stopped, checked map and nothing really corresponded to what I should have been seeing. Got out the compass. Confirmation, I was bearing off south whereas I wanted to be heading southwest. Sat down for a quick nibble and a spot of checking. This confirmed I was off course. To get back on track I dropped down and up around the side of Esgair Fraith. So far so good. Came down by Pen Cae, now heading on a track that would lead me back to where I wanted to be. Horror, the track went up through forestry and it had been clear felled. The track was obliterated. Massed of lopped branches formed an impregnable barrier. Now I was annoyed. It meant a detour of several miles on forestry roads to come back to the point I wanted to be. That was hard, hard going. A very steep uphill bit that seemed to go on for ever and then a plod around to pick up the bridleway I wanted, once more, forestry struck, the actual bridleway I wanted had been swallowed up by logging operations.. There was a reward though. Came down to the car park and mountain bike area by Nant yr Hwch. There a small information centre and tea room there. What is more, it was open. Fantasmagorical, a cup of tea is never to be missed in such circumstances. The chappie was apologetic, he only had cakes and the such. Well, I had a slice of carrot cake, finished off his fruit cake, stuffed a couple of scones in the rucksack with a bit of flapjack and polished off a large pot of tea. It was welcome and much needed. It was a road plod from there down to Llwynderw. On the map the path is marked as a bridleway. Ok, the first bit was not too bad, however, as I climbed higher towards the saddle it all became a boggy morass. It was obvious that at one time there had indeed been a well defined track but now it was just horrible going. Dropped down towards Lyn Brianne reservoir. Stopped just short of the road. literally stepping off the path on to a nice flat bit of ground. Some hard going today.

Thursday 17th April. Camped OS explorer map 187. gr 811328.
Well, I knew when I was studying the map last night that today was going to be a tough one and so it proved. Was packed up and away early this morning. The final bit of path leading down to the road had been washed away which led to an interesting little scramble on a tiny ledge of loose shale. Followed the road around to Bwlch-y-ffin. A few flurries of snow on the way. The intention was to pick up the track that would lead up and over the hill and allow me to drop down towards Cynnant. Unfortunately there was a plethora of tracks, one newly cut and several leading off in all directions and obviously used by farm vehicles. After some thrashing around by some recently felled timber and more bits of track it was obvious that unless I struck off off across country relying on the compass it was going to be no go. rather than mess about I decided on the longer route and headed straight down the road the road towards Rhandirmwyn. long, tiresome miles. Serendipity though, just outside the village another tea shop an open too. To be honest I was hesitant. It looked a wee bit like one of those twee olde worlde tea shoppies and I felt and looked scruffy with travel worn gear and muddy boots. However, the lady was most kind. "Was I hungry?" She asked, suggesting I may like her local ham and eggs. What an offer to make, how could I refuse! First I was brought a huge pot of tea and then the food. Wow, the ham was humungous, it literally covered a full sized dinner plate and was over a quarter of an inch thick; on top lay two large fried eggs. With this came two very fresh rolls and a pot of butter. This repast opened an eye with a 'I dare you' look. Rising to the challenge I polished off the lot and downed four cups of tea. All for just six pounds. it was the only welcoming thing in the whole area though. Trying to pick up footpaths and even bridleways. Gates with chains and padlocks. Keep out and private signs abounded. Came around by the village sewage works, across a field and up a track to where I am certain I was deliberately misled by a woman with a very plummy accent. She was insist ant the track I was aiming for was private property and pointed me off in another direction. yes, I should have stayed my ground, however, I did not have the time to argue. As I knew it would, the track she put me on ended in a field. Rather than back track I carried on, across a double barb wire fence to Crincae and up on to the road. Around and on to another bridleway. met a couple of farmers, what a change in character. "Yes dear, this is the track you are wanting then. Sorry it is so muddy, we haff been running up and down it with the tractors." Followed it around to Penddrainllwyn. From there followed the lane down to the main road by Cynghordy. A quicky shuffle down the main A483 and another footpath up through the woods by the Allt y Cefn and then up to Cefn farm. Down the lane to Tan y Pal. Another footpath around to Little Hall. There should have been another footpath from there leading up to the lane that runs up to Blaen Tir. As often happens, what is on the map and what is actually on the ground do not correspond. Once the farm track ran out just struck up across a field and through the woods to the lane. At least from Blaen Tir there was a rough track around to Glandwr. From there it was a wearisome, footsore plod uphill and around to Cefnpwllhen farm. On the map there was a tiny track marked running down from the farm towards the A40. Saw the farmer and asked permission as it was not marked as a public right of way. he was most complimentary that I had bothered to ask his permission. Came down by Pentebrach, straight across the main road and back up the other side to pick up the bridleway that runs from Troed y Rhiw. By now it was getting late and I was weary. It had been obvious that finding somewhere to camp was not going to be easy. By close study of the map I did have a plan though. Just before Dagfa farm there was a track running in to some deciduous woodland. it was a little worrying though that as I came up the bridleway to see farm buildings. however, these where just that, the actual farmhouse was further up the track. The track that runs in to this wood had been little used and I am tucked in out of sight. Water had been a bit of a problem. Needs must though and I snuck in to the farm yard. Today has been long, as I knew it would be, I had set myself a hard goal in attempting to cover this distance. it is satisfying though to have actually done it.

Friday 18th April. Pontardawe.
Today was the final push. My aim was to be close in to Pontardawe where I would be staying with folks. It was arranged that I would get as close in as possible and then ring up at around 1800hrs to give my whereabouts. It was going to be tricky and would mean another long day. The quickest and slightly easier route meant several miles of travelling through the lanes. Thus it was a foot pounding walk around by
Myddfai, the Cross Inn, (closed unfortunately) Llanddeusant. Those where relentless miles. The lanes wind through rolling countryside and switchback up and down with steep drops and equally steep climbs. It was a pleasure to get out on to the open moorland. Picking up one of the Brecon Ways, there is more than one. With good ground to be walking on I came past the disused quarries. Once more A navigational error found me on the path that leads over towards the Dan yr Ogof area. it was not what I wanted.. A quick check of map and compass, and few mutterings under my breath. 'Make a decision, any decision'. Came across country to pick up the river. Could not find the path that crosses the ridge that runs beside it. In a
moment of utter madness I decided to head off down the gorge. It was something I had looked at before but had never done. Well, it was interesting. People had been that way before but I bet not many. It involved some minor scrambling, boulder hopping, detours over steep bits of hillside. Negotiating over rock falls, ducking under massive over hanging boulders, inching across one or two greasy ledges. Through in the odd bit of bog to add to the mix. A fitting end to a weeks walking. Picked up a path further down. this led to the ruins of Dorwen farm. Once I came down by Pen Y Wern I was on an easier path and able to pick up the pace. My aim was to come out on the A4068 by Mount Pleasant. Did this by the allotted time of 180hrs.. Kept moving down the valley and was picked up just five miles short of Pontardawe.
The whole aim of this walk was to see how my fitness was. With the TGOC coming up I wanted to test things out a bit. it has been a long while since I have done anything this serous. Mileage wise it works out very roughly at some one hundred and twenty three miles. On average, 7 miles, 25, 28, 33, 30. My navigation needs brushing up a a little maybe. Weather wise it has not been bad, cold winds, frost, sleet, hail and a wee bit of snow. Maybe that does not sound so good but in between there has been sun and good visibilty. that and some good wild camps. As the song says, "It's been some hard travelling." But fun.

Welsh ambulation

Thursday 3rd April. Camped Map OL213 GR 732831.
Travelled up this morning on the train. This area had attracted my attention when perusing the map on my previous trip around Cadair Idris. A closer study of the adjoining map and my interest was aroused. Especially when I noticed the tiny line running up to Devils Bridge. A quick check and yes, there was a narrow gauge train. A plus point was that it was feasible by catching the early train from London. Doing it this way avoided some 11 miles of rural countryside. Thus did the tourist bit and had a ride on the steam train. Third class if you please. Actually saw red kites on the way and the run up was in glorious sunshine. A cuppa and sandwich at the wee cafe and then set off by about three thirty. One slight disadvantageous was that I had to descend down in to the steep sided valley and ascend the other side. came down on the path below Rhiwfron halt in to the afon Rheidol and then back up the track by the Alt-y-Grigfan. The forestry in the valley is all mixed woodland. However it is like a massive graveyard. All the undergrowth is bursting forth with new life and energy. The trees though show absolutely no sign of life. They stand gaunt and stark; skelital in appearance, totally lifeless, dead. Maybe this is the legacy of the mining industry wich once thrived in the region. Some of those mines where lead mines and the spoil tips from them stand barren, scars on the landscape. Came around by Pen-Rhiw-Gam and then by a very indistinct footpath over to Lyn-Yr Oeifu. On the ground a couple of marker indicating a right of way pointed totally in the wrong direction. Sticking to what I was reading on the map I ignored them. Up and around by Pant-y-Ffynnon and around the back of the wind farm and across to Llynwernog Pont. Once again, no real path, just had to pay attention to the map. Another quick map check and a hasty half mile dash down the main road to the forestry information centre at Bwlch Nant-yr-Arian. Time was getting on and it looked probable that I would still have to cover a further few miles before finding a wild camp spot. Forestry is not my forte and here especially, with such a plethora of cycle tracks, it meant very close map reading, checking and double checking.Came up by Pen Darren, (eek, a Welsh Darren!) and then across to where I am now camped. A longish push of some four and a half hours. It was expected though. Doing it this way has meant I am now clear of enclosed farmland and am in open country. No real roads now for the next few days, just a few single track ones. it has been a glorious day, warm and dry with sunshine. However, as night draws in the temperature in the temperature is dropping fast.
Friday 4th April. camped map OL123. GR 734881.
Early last night it was crystal clear with brilliant starlight. By the early hours of this morning thick cloud had rolled in. It was dense when I had breakfast, fog obliterated everything. The world appeared to be swathed in cotton wool, grey and cloying. I packed up in a damp mizzle. Not really rain, nor yet really drizzle, just a saturating dampness. it had been my plan to head down to the road, take a left turn and then a first right up past a small holding. That was fine, beyond the buildings though, despite a couple of styles, there was no sign of anything on the ground. Rather than mess around with map and compass, I backtracked to the road and swung around to Llyn Baenmelindwy. These roads are tiny affairs, one tractor and two sheep would constitute a rush hour. Continued up to Llyn Syfydrin. Almost walked in to a flock of geese. Pandemonium, dark shapes looming out of the mirk, geese taking of in all directions with a great clamour, honking and hissing. Gave me quite a start, especially as I was nearly run down by a low flying goose. That would have been an interesting story, 'walker felled by goose'? Walked on by Bwlchystyllen. A sad ruin now, but obviously at one time a working farm. Not a place I would have chosen, situated in a shallow hollow and overlooking bog and barren ground. It felt a rather cheerless place. As I made my way across by Rhyd-y-Gaib the mist momentarily parted giving tantalising glimpses of wonderful scenery and closed again. Have stopped by the old quarries. it has been a short day of walking, but that was intended. there is no rush. The fog is currently swirling and eddying around the tent in thick heavy tendrils. The forecast though is for the temperature to drop as the wind swings around to due north.
Saturday 5th April. camped Map OL 23. GR 755948.
A leisurely day. A few icy showers early this morning. As forecast the wind had swung due north. Hung around until the showers had drifted by and then dropped down to the road that goes around by the Nant-y-Moch reservoir and headed up through the forestry. Much of the forest had been cleared, leaving open vistas and more pleasant for walking.. Worked my way around by a disused mine. A gate with a 'private keep out' sign I ignored. It is marked as a bridleway. In all probability it is to stop folk driving through. My aim was head over to Llyn Conach and then turn off. At one point the old track I was following plunged in to an area of dense forest. Total Stygian gloom, serried ranks of close packed trees blotting out the daylight. The track ended abruptly, obliterated by recent harvesting. made it out on to a track ok. A bit of confusion, where there should have been two tracks there was only one. No real problem. Did a dog leg instead and walked around to New Pool, past the 'Anglers Retreat' and over to Llyn-Penrhaedr and on to Pistyll-y-Llyn. Wow, an impressive cleft that drops sheer away to the valley below. A wonderful and impressive waterfall too. The path contoured around and down the steep hillside by -Nant-y-Gog. Am camped close by. Once more an early stop but why rush? The weather has been good all day, despite a few showers of sleet.. Cold though, enough for hat and gloves. heading out tomorrow to Machynlleth.
Sunday 6th April. Machynlleth.
Snow during the night, by this morning the tent was quite heavy with it. The temperature had dropped by the early hours. This meant ice on the tent as well as snow. Oh my, poking my nose out of the sleeping bag it was chilly. There is that initial reluctance to leave the warm cocoon of the sleeping bag and get dressed. It was bright with sunshine as I packed up. Walked on down to Cwmyrhaiadr. there was path opposite where I came out in the lane. it was going to be a short day thus I took the longer way up to Bwlch y Groese. From there a pleasant walk along the Glnydwrs way. One or two snow showers but nothing to worry about. Followed the way right around to drop down by Cae Gybi cottages. Spent over an hour walking around Machynlleth looking for b&b. Nothing, made enquiries but nobody had any suggestions. The two places I found where both closed, despite one having a vacancies sign out. Maybe I could have bi vied or walked out of town and camped somewhere. However, I wanted a shower and clean clothes. Finally booked in to the only hotel that actually took guests. Three others where apologetic but had nothing to offer. This is really costing me more than I can afford. Strange sitting in a hotel room eating a dried, prepare in the bag meal. The cost of a meal was scary. A good few days out. Had a stomach problem though, food was going through me rapidly. Fortunately there where some imoden pills in the first aid kit and I finally resorted to one of those. Took my lighter, three season sleeping bag. was warm enough, just. Put my jacket over the bag for a bit of extra warmth. The area around here is excellent walking country, ditto for mountain biking. Miles and miles of wide open country and a profusion of tracks. Maybe we could do a bloggers meet sometime?

Preperations.

After an interesting week in Wales it was time to assess what gear will be used on the TGOC. First though gear had to be washed. The hex was slathered in mud, inside and out. To be honest I cannot recall a time when I have had a tent so muddy. The rucksack also had collected its fair share of mud, ditto trousers, boots and gaiters. Food wise I am keeping things fairly simple. Discovering that I can actually buy American dried foods for the same price as in the Uk, that includes postage, I have opted for some of the American stuff. Mainly for variety. Where else can you buy freeze dried choc chip ice cream? The company I have ordered from offer things like individual sachets of ginger and honey crystals. They are WWW.WildernessDining.COM. One or two new bits of gear will be used. A very light pair of carbon fibre trekking poles. Their one down side is their length. My intention is to carry them separately when using public transport as I did in Wales. My first impression of them was that they where flimsy but they seem ok; for summer anyway. The rucksack I find most comfortable with is my Osprey Atmos 50 ltre. This provides enough space for everything. Unfortunately my wash kit weighs in at almost 1lb. This is due to medical stuff I have to carry. Also, I hate travelling in my walking footwear, thus I travel in a light pair of flats and light pair of travel trousers. This does allow spare change of footwear. They fit snugly in one of the front pockets of the atmos. Possibly I will use the Hex, although there is a chance I may be using a different beast. For a ground cloth I am using a light polypropolene sheet from Winwood. At three quid it is worth it. At least with hex I know its capabilities. At present I am saying nothing though! Sleeping bag will be my Western Mountaineering with a silk liner. For added protection I use a very light outer cover with weighs around 4 ounces. The thermarest prolite three quarter. Stove wise I am sticking to the Optimus crux and a single titanium pot. A plastic collapsible bowl serves for a plate, eating cerials, or for washing. My 3ltr collapsible nalgene water bottle and 1 litr water bladder for drinking on the move. Clothing wise is mostly sorted. My Berghause paclite waterproof trousers and Rab nuetrino jacket will be my waterproof outer shell. A couple of light smart wool tees, a slighter heavier thermal top and a windproof. A couple of pairs of undies, ditto bras. My Lowe Alpine women's climbing trousers I think. May in Scotland can be variable. Footwear will be my Scarpa midis. They are heavier than I would have liked but new footwear is expensive. My old gaiters will suffice for muddy conditions. They have seen better days but are still serviceable. Hats gloves, first aid kit etc are always carried anyway and my sharp knife just in case I catch a stray haggis? Overall weight will average, including food and fuel, around 28lb, 11/12 kilo.

going light, a downside

Tuesday 18th March. Camped OS map LR 124. GR 625322.approx.
Travelled up this morning to arrive in Harlech by early afternoon. My intention had been to get a meal in Harlech before heading out. However, everything was still closed for the winter season. Not even a fish and chip shop open. Finally found a cafe open, the only hot food available was an egg bap. Basically I was told, 'sorry, we do not serve meals this early in the year'! Heading out of Harlich involves a stiffish haul up the hill. Made my way by footpath up and across to Methyr farm and then around to where I am now camped. Am on a fairly flattish bit of ground just below a rocky outcrop which is providing shelter from any wind. Have a lovely view across to Llyn cym. There is a heavy dew this evening.
Wednesday. OS map Lr124. camped gr 624206.
As I thought it would be, a long day out. The heavy dew of last night froze as the temperature dropped during the night. Thus this morning the tent was sheathed in ice and the water bottle was partially frozen. This in turn means a later start. However, it was a beautiful morning. Dropped down by Cwm Mawr and picked up the path towards Cwm Bychan. The Rhinogs where so close, so tempting but time and the weather was against me. From what i had picked up on the long term forecast bad weather was due on Thursday. Also, I had arranged to meet folk at a camp site. Took the path up and around to Gloyw Llyn. A lovely setting with the water nestling in an amphitheatre of rock. An interesting section of path that climbs up from the llyn, twisting in and out of rocky outcrops. Followed the path, more or less, it is obscure when it get over the hill and drops down toward Nantcol. Dithered a bit coming around by Cilcychwyn. My original intention had been to pick up the path that led over to Pont Scethin. In hindsight I should have stuck to that. For speed though and because I was getting a tad tired I swung around by a lovely tiny, gated road that had some wonderful newly built dry stone walls. it is good to see the old dry stone walling skills are still being used. Picked up another path leading over towards Tal y ffynonau. In theory there ought to have been a continuing path leading over and leading straight on. it was not to be found though. A farmer was working his sheep further up the hill. So, rather than climb over walls and head across fields I swung around by the track. A long dog leg to work my way across to Pont Fadog. Followed the track up to where I am now camped. Stopped late and am tired. A very vivid sunset tonight and lovely moonrise. A full moon too, awooohhh!
Thursday. Bunkhouse at Corris.
As I suspected, a very full day. Woke this morning to thick cloud shrouding the hills and a rising wind. Came up by Bwlch y Rhiwgyr in swirling mist. Around by Bwlch y Llan and down to Barmouth. Found a cafe open that was still doing breakfast and nipped in for a full breakfast. A good, substantial breakfast. From the look of things it would be needed. Came across the toll bridge. Wow, was it windy or what. Headed up the hill opposite. Bad weather was coming in off the sea and I was pushing hard to get on as far as possible before it hit. It began raining as I followed the track up toward Cyfannedd. Crossed over in to thick forestry. The path headed directly up hill. It was badly churned and muddy. People had been riding trial bikes up and down it. So annoying, why can people not stick to the the forestry tracks and avoid footpaths? The whole path was awful. Hemmed in by close ranks of trees, in places it was a total quagmire and I slithered and struggled through the morass, cross, bothered and slathered in mud. Thick cloud swirled around me as I came out in to the open to pick up the path that came around by Trawsfynnydd. The rain was icy up there. A quick check of the compass to quell a few niggling doubts as I plodded on, head down in heavy, driving rain. There was sigh of relief as I dropped down towards Bodilan Fach. Noticed a flock of sheep watching me as crossed over a stile just above the farm. Spoke nicely to them as I do and carried on. Glancing back I saw to my horror that the whole flock had tucked in behind me and where intent on staying with me. Well, I knew I was wet and bedraggled but this was ridiculous. The farmer appeared as I approached the farmhouse. He laughed when I apologised, explaining that they where looking to me to feed them. Time now was running late and I still had a good few miles to cover before getting to the campsite just beyond Minfford. The quickest way was to stick to the road, yuch. However, I got to the campsite at last light. All I wanted was to get out of wet gear and in to a warm sleeping bag and have some hot food and drink. To my horror the whole campsite was was a wet, churned up muddy mess. Sheep had been in there recently. Walking the whole field it was obvious there was no place for a tent. By now the weather was awful, high winds and rain. Reverting to plan z, I retreated to the ladies. The intention to at least get the stove out and get something hot down me. Water flowing over the floor squashed that idea. Now that I had stopped the cold was really starting to hit me. Slipped my thermal gilet on under the waterproofs and waited in the dark for two hours until folk started turning up. Retreating to the pub we waited until everyone had arrived and then agreed to head for this hostel. A hard day.
Friday. Back at the hostel.
We headed back to the campsite this afternoon after an easy morning wandering around Dolgellau and having breakfast in a cafe. People decided the site was not too bad even though it was obvious the place was a wind trap. Heavy showers of icy rain and hail made putting up tents a wee bit interesting. The hex was standing up to the weather ok. What was obvious though was that without a floor The mud was going to cover everything. Even going to the loo meant muddy boots and gaiters slathered in the thick, cloying stuff. It is one of those factors, wild camping out on the hill one can usually find a sheltered spot and ground that is fairly firm, even if wet. Normally the half ground cloth I use is absolutely fine. It is something I have found before. In a few campsites I have used previously, wet and mud have been prominent in bad weather conditions. it is the one time going light fails. A heavier tent with a strong ground sheet is really required.
Saturday.
Took a walk up to Waun Oer. high wind chill factor on the top. Some sleet and snow.
Sunday. Just pottered and am heading out in the morning.

Doctor's suggestion.

Camped OS Map LR23. GR 405659. Roughly. Thursday 6th March

Had to go to the doctors a few days back. It was not my usual doctor that I saw but someone different. A few questions asked, a couple of quick checks and a few pills prescribed. Then, to my surprise, the Doctor suggested I may need a tad more exercise! Now than was an interesting recommendation that just had to be tried. So, without further preamble I went for a walk and am now on the Isle of Skye. Well, it seemed a good idea at the time.
Maybe it is just me, or because I rely on public transport; there is almost a ritual to catching trains and buses. The initial dash across town to the train station, pick up train tickets. On this journey it involves an eight hour run north. So, buy a bottle of water and a baguette and then hover on the concourse, eyes fixed on the notice board, poised. Finally the platform number is announced. now comes the quick dash down the platform, I do not have a reserved seat so have to move sharpish to get one. It may be me but I hate travelling backwards so nobble a forward facing seat; if I can, in the quiet zone. My bag with my boots in is dropped on the seat; a quick wriggle to get the rucksack off and then stow it close by so that I can keep an eye on it and then sink into my seat with a sigh as the carriage rapidly begins to fill.
Once more it involved a stopover in Inverness. From there a bus down to Portree, change buses and continue on to Uig. Nip into the ferry terminal loos for a quick change into my hill stuff and then away. It had been my original intention to head up on to the hill and follow the ridge line up towards the Quiraing, however, drizzly rain was blowing in off the sea and the cloud base was well down. So it was that I had an easy afternoon,s walk up to where I am now camped. Much bog all around, the bit of ground I am on is not too bad, wet, but not actual bog. With a rising wind and being a little exposed the tent pegs have been weighted down with heavy rocks. Broke a fingernail in the process, grrrh, I hate having raggity nails. The wind is becoming quite strong this evening and the local forecast is for gale force winds with speeds of 70 mph plus with gusts of over 90mph on the tops, yikes!
Friday 7th. Camped OS Map LR 23 GR 462709.
A quite quiet day after a storm tossed night. Woke up a few times during the night as the wind pummeled the tent, rain and hail beating a rhythm on the taut material. This morning the wind had moderated. Headed up to the bealach and turned off on to the path that leads through the Quiraing. What a lovely, delightful path. Twisting, winding, following the contours of the hill. it leads under dark, brooding cliffs, their beetling brows dripping with moisture. Through strange, shattered rock formations. Pillars of crumbling stone, weird and fantastic. Some have names such as the prison, the needle, the quiraing etc. Spent some time exploring, scrambling over scree, winding in out of massive boulders. It would have been nice to do more. It was tempting to stay up there, as I had originally planned. The day had been one of showers, mainly hail with a drop of thick sleet mixed in for good measure. The wind had picked up again and I had been pushed around with some quite violent gusts. So prudence prevailed. Coming down by loch Hasco a particularly nasty squall howled off the hill. It was impressive watching the swirling sleet and hail spinning across the loch in tormented eddies. One more the tent is anchored down with large boulders and the forecast is for more gales. It is quite something to hear the rumble of the wind as it gathers speed coming down off the hill. First there is a low rumble, cats paws of ripples ruffle the loch. Suddenly all changes, the water appears to smoke as the wind slams across it, there is a bang and the tent shudders as the wind comes howling past. Wow, scary, maybe I am being fatalistic but there is nothing else I can do. Then tent is as well anchored as I can manage; it is out of my hands.
Saturday. Portree.
Well, gales through the night, once more easing a wee bit this morning. Bailed out in a temporary lull. There is something surreal, maybe even a tad insane, in deliberately setting out in such weather. having said that, this is nature in the raw, it goes with the territory; it is part and parcel of what I do. Once again plans had to be changed. The original plan had been to follow the ridges down through to The Storr. With severe weather warnings for the area that plan was rapidly revised. Went straight across the road and down to the coast and picked my way around to Staffin Bay. Tricky going, the foreshore was stone and boulder. Boggy fields, interlaced with a myriad of fences that came right down to the shore added to the difficulty. Had one eye open for any possible stopping places but with nothing around, continued on down the road. had a few places on the map that looked possible for a camp. The one that was most suitable was right on the seashore and open to every bit of weather. The wind continued to rise as I shambled down the road. Bruised, blue, black clouds hung ominously low over the distant ridges. Prolonged hail showers beat a voracious tattoo on the hood of my jacket. The rising wind caused me to crab sideways, at one point I found myself actually being propelled backwards down the road. When a car skidded to a stop a couple of miles outside of Portree and offered me a lift, the temptation was too much. The though of a hot shower and dry clothes was something that became very appealing. Being unsure of how a landlady would react to someone trying to book in looking like a loch on the hoof, I opted for a backpackers hostel. Mind, the guy who booked me in looked pretty startled as a pool of water rapidly formed around my feet. There where curious glances from the rich and varied medley of back packing students that inhabit such places. Probably it is not every day that a half drowned granny comes tumbling through the door? Well, tomorrow I will probably do the tourist thing and just potter around. Possibly head over to Kyle or maybe even eventually push on to Inverness. Despite the weather, or maybe because of the extremity of it, it has not been too bad a trip. Just a bit short.