Monday 11 September 2017

Lleyn Peninsula

Recently John Jocys, re JJ, a squeezebox virtuoso  from the depths of Manchester, had spent some time backpacking on the Lleyn Peninsula. Impressed by the rugged scenery, he planned a return visit. This time Mike, LTD, (Lucky The Dog) and myself were invited along. After a flurry of e mails, dates and times were agreed upon. John was bringing his caravan and we had agreed to meet up in the village of Llanystumdwy. Mike and I arrived mid afternoon in the village. Checking out the caravan site designated by John, we found he had not yet arrived. Further enquiries indicated he had not booked either. Despite a very poor signal, Mike managed to contact John, he was still on his way. We decided to check out another caravan and campsite in the village. Not marked on the map, with less facilities than the larger one, but cheaper too. That is were we ended up.
  Lunch break stop on the way to Wales.
Looking over toward the Mersey.
It began to rain as we set up camp and we retired to JJ's caravan for tea. The rain, heavy at times continued all night and on through the morning. The original intention had been to leave the cars and caravan on the site while we spent a few days backpacking. The rain saw those plans being scrapped.

A very swollen river by the campsite.
The decision was made to go for linear walks instead. By early Tuesday afternoon we set of in light drizzle. Leaving one car in Llanbedrog, we then headed on to Abersoch. From there we  headed back, starting with a lovely beach walk.
Stranded jelly fish
A lovely beach stroll.
It was then a steady walk up a leafy lane, turning off to head up to Mynydd Tir y Cwmwd.
View back toward Abersoch.
The rain had stopped as we approached the trig point. The sun filtered through the clouds. A bench provided an excellent place to sit, enjoy lunch and admire the wide open vistas.
A long, steady descent saw us heading back to Llanbedrog. Once more the views were excellent.
Llanbedrog is well worth a visit.
The tide goes out a long way here.
Wednesday saw us navigating down very narrow roads to leave one car at Aberdaron and the other at Whistling Sands, our starting point.
The first thing we found was that the coast path signs were, at times inaccurate and vague. Some pointed in the wrong direction, others had us struggling to make sense of their directions. The maps and the actual signing often at odds with each other.
 There was a blustery wind blowing but the views were excellent.. The countryside here is reminiscent of Cornwall. Small fields enclosed with earth and stone walls, all laid out in a higgledy piggledy fashion.
Following the coastline here does mean a fair degree of ascent and descent.
Mike having a map reading tiz on Mount Pleasant?? Lucky just chills though!
A variety of fungus were quite prolific in many areas.
On the last couple of miles, with time getting on, we abandoned out attempts to follow the coast path, taking to the road back to Aberdaron.
Thursday saw us using just the one car. Our destination was Rhiw. Initially we started off following a sign posted circular route. However, we wandered off for a lovely wee scrambly walk up a rocky rib. There is actually a path marked on the map. Faint on the ground though. A hill fort and hut circles are marked on the map in the area of Mynydd y Graig.
We follow a bouldery rib.
Heading up through the rocks.
Our meandering led us up to the trigpoint on Mynydd Penarfynydd.
 We headed back following part of the coastal path. A fine walk.
All week I had been hoping to fit in a swim. Having finished our walk early, we headed off to Porth Neigwl. Hell's Mouth in English. A westerly wind was blowing directly onshore. Large breakers were rolling in from quite a  way out. Notices warned of dangerous currents and rip tides. It did not feel safe to risk going in on my own. Mike and I settled for a paddle instead.
The bay, Hell's Mouth.
On Friday it was just a case of packing up and heading home. Many thanks to John for the use of his caravan as a tea drinking, food cooking and eating base. Thanks too for the ginormous breakfast butties.

Figure above Llanbedrog.


Possibly a chapel? Llanbedrog.
Large slugs abounded on the campsite.
Trwyn y Gwyddel in the distance.
More fungi
LTD, Lucky the dog.


  1. Its a shame the weather wasn't nicer for your trip. We love the Llyn Peninsula which has some great isolated summits (Carn Fadryn is our favourite) and great coastline walking and beaches. You are right though that the signposting is very hit and miss. Some of the hills are pretty untamed as well. We had some fun once on the hills above Nefyn which were almost impenetrable with brambles and gorse. Took us over an hour to climb a couple of hundred feet. They are now legendary in our group as "The Prickly Hills"

  2. It is indeed a lovely area Andy. Would love to visit it again.

  3. As I said to Mike, I've so many happy memories of all around that area from many, childhood, caravan holidays! Magic place.

  4. A beautiful area indeed Chrissie.

  5. Yes, shame about the weather, but wonderful walking country. I can smell the bacon and field mushrooms now. Mmm

  6. Well worth a return visit Alan.